Learning the fundamentals of coloristics is crucial for novice hairdressers because coloring hair is both an art and a science. Selecting a color from a chart is not as simple as it may seem; you also need to know how various tones blend together, how they contrast with natural hair tones, and how to strike the ideal balance.
Although it may seem overwhelming to start with the basics, doing so is essential to producing gorgeous, customized looks for your clients. Every step in the process, from comprehending the color wheel to knowing how to mix colors correctly, is essential.
You will learn the fundamentals of color theory, how to use them in practical situations, and some common mistakes to avoid by following this guide. This article is your go-to source for all the information you require on coloristics, regardless of your level of experience.
| Concept | Explanation |
| Primary Colors | The base colors: red, blue, and yellow. All other colors come from mixing these. |
| Secondary Colors | These are made by mixing two primary colors, like green, orange, and purple. |
| Tertiary Colors | A blend of primary and secondary colors, like red-orange or blue-green. |
| Warm Colors | Colors like red, orange, and yellow that give a sense of warmth. |
| Cool Colors | Colors like blue, green, and purple that create a cool, calm effect. |
| Color Wheel | A tool showing how colors relate to each other. It helps in creating color schemes. |
| Complementary Colors | Colors opposite each other on the color wheel, like blue and orange. They contrast well. |
| Analogous Colors | Colors next to each other on the color wheel, like blue, blue-green, and green. They blend smoothly. |
| Neutral Colors | Black, white, gray, and brown. They balance out vibrant colors. |
| Undertone | The subtle hue under the main color, like a blue undertone in black hair. |
- What is coloristics in hairdressing?
- How to become a hair colorist from scratch: where to take training?
- Basics of coloristics for hairdressers
- What determines hair color?
- Color theory
- Rules of coloristics by color types of appearance: table
- Video on the topic
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What is coloristics in hairdressing?
Coloristics is a fundamental science about color, without which almost no hairdresser can do today. Without a thorough knowledge of coloristics, the master will not be able to determine the tone and depth of the client"s hair color, select a new shade depending on the color type, mix dyes in the right proportions, neutralize an unwanted tone, return the natural color and so on. That is, a professional colorist must have sufficient knowledge of color theory and skillfully apply it in practice during the hair coloring procedure. It is enough to complete a full course of coloristics lessons for beginner hairdressers to master the basics of the profession, and then constantly improve. More about this.
How to become a hair colorist from scratch: where to take training?
How to become a hair colorist from scratch, without secondary vocational education behind you? Today, anyone can take training in special “coloristics from scratch” courses, but this option is more suitable for those who want to learn how to dye their hair themselves, rather than for fully mastering the profession of a colorist. Future hair coloring specialists study the basics and secrets of coloristics for several years – usually it takes two to three years to obtain a secondary specialized hairdressing education at a technology college. In the process, students will learn not only the rules of coloristics when dyeing hair, formulas for creating shades and how to use dyes, but also master hair processing operations, styling techniques, types of haircuts, the basics of hairstyle modeling and much more. Of course, the training does not end there: to be on trend, a colorist must update their skills and knowledge in hairdressing. As noted by the technologist L’Oréal Professionnel Elena Komissarova, there are many options for hairdressers to improve their qualifications in a short period of time – from classic courses and practical seminars to educational applications for smartphones (an example is the online platform L’Oréal Access – in addition to access via mobile applications, you can log in to the site through any browser and start free training on thematic modules that interest you).
Regarding advanced training, there are numerous options available today. Depending on their needs, each master can select the appropriate course, such as learning new techniques for coloring or haircutting, refreshing their knowledge of coloristics, or becoming familiar with new products. Conveniently, there are also a variety of training formats available, including offline practical seminars, online seminars led by brand technologists, and self-study on an online platform.
Elena Komissarova
High-quality consumables will become your faithful allies both in the learning process and in the professional field. Our experts recommend using products from well-known brands that have earned the respect of colorists. Beginners and experienced colorists now have the opportunity to promote their services from Avito and L"Oréal. If you are already looking for clients using the Avito online service, add the icon "L"Oréal Professionnel Training" or "Matrix Training" to your ad . To do this, you need to complete training on the eAcademie platform with the development of new skills in coloristics. Read more about the program for stylists here. Participants will receive 1000 bonuses – they can be invested in promoting their personal brand with effective Avito business tools. And that"s not all! You will receive a -50% discount on further training with eAcademie. A lot of online and offline seminars, new techniques and products for the implementation of the most complex requests of clients are waiting for you.
For novice hairdressers, color theory is crucial because it establishes the groundwork for producing amazing hair transformations. With the help of this article, you will be able to understand the fundamentals of coloristics and start experimenting with hair color with confidence. Topics covered include tone levels, the color wheel, and mixing techniques.
Basics of coloristics for hairdressers
A hairdresser’s mastery of coloristics is essential to their work; with it, they can create colorings of any complexity. Nevertheless, the natural color of the curls also affects the final outcome of hair coloring, in addition to the expert’s skill. Let’s quickly review the fundamentals of coloristics.
What determines hair color?
Natural hair color is directly affected by the pigment melanin. It, in turn, is divided into two types: eumelanin (large cells of red and blue color) and pheomelanin (rounded cells of red and yellow color). This is interesting: blue molecules of the melanin pigment are responsible for the depth and coldness of hair color, red ones – for saturation, and yellow ones – for brightness. All hair contains all pigment particles, but depending on which of them predominate, the color reflection will be different. Thus, brunettes are characterized by a large amount of eumelanin, and blondes – pheomelanin. Moreover, in very light hair, eumelanin is almost completely absent and is replaced by oxygen molecules. By the way, pheomelanin is also responsible for the lightening background, that is, the hair color that remains after removing eumelanin. It is pheomelanin that often gives unwanted yellowness and "rust" when lightening hair or swamp shade when darkening them.
Color hackers Matrix advise beginning with "cleaning" the future lightening background with powder High Riser in order to achieve an accurate transfer of the color shade. You can quickly achieve a clean background on both previously colored and natural hair by using a potent professional product. It also behaves gently in the same moment. A bonder with an acidic pH is included in the formula to safeguard the hair’s internal structure. To complete the process, tone your hair in one of the hottest, cool colors from the SoColor Sync alkaline dye palette (for resistant hair) or Tonal Control acid toner (for sensitive, brittle hair).
Color theory
The basics that any colorist should know is the basic color theory. Blue, red and yellow are the so-called primary colors. Any natural shade of hair from black to light blonde is just a combination of three primary colors. By mixing blue, red and yellow together, you can get secondary colors. For example, a mix of yellow and red gives orange, yellow and blue – green, red and blue – violet. When mixing secondary with primary, tertiary colors are obtained. The laws of color mixing in coloristics and the formation of shades in hair coloring are based on the Oswald circle. The ability to work with it is the most important skill that a hairdresser-colorist must have. For example, to neutralize a shade, the master takes the color located on the circle opposite the one that needs to be eliminated. If, on the contrary, the shade needs to be enhanced, then it is mixed with the color located next to it, that is, with a related shade. Related colors are in one quarter of the Oswald color wheel. Without color theory and the basics of coloristics in educational programs, novice hairdressers would be forced to comprehend color science only in practice, through trial and error. And a mistake is always someone"s hair and someone"s spoiled mood. Another essential "base" for a colorist is knowledge of color temperature. All shades are divided into cold and warm. The conditional dividing line on the color wheel passes through red and green – they belong to both. In turn, purple and blue are cold colors, yellow and orange are warm.
The hairdresser applies a warm tone to counterbalance a chilly shade. It also functions in reverse, using a cold hue to counterbalance the warm background of lightning. Furthermore, numerous details must be considered in order to achieve a stunning, precise outcome, including the lighting’s background, density, hair type, and neutralization specialist’s chosen shade.
Elena Komissarova
It is believed that cold shades standing on the Oswald circle one after another counterclockwise are incompatible. At the same time, warm shades located one after another clockwise are compatible. Before dyeing hair, the colorist always visually determines the level of tone depth of the hair, that is, its main color without any additional shades. For convenience, ten levels of tone depth are distinguished – from the darkest to the lightest. For example, at L’Oréal Professionnel this is: 1 – black, 2 – brunette, 3 – dark brown, 4 – brown, 5 – light brown, 6 – dark blonde, 7 – blonde, 8 – light blonde, 9 – very light blonde, 10 – very, very light blonde. Sometimes the designation includes the second and third digits (color nuance) or a letter (color direction), thus manufacturers expand the color range of their paints.
Rules of coloristics by color types of appearance: table
The work of the master during coloring is significantly simplified by color typing. A color type of appearance is a color that is determined by the natural shade of the skin, eyes and hair. In total, there are four main color types: "summer" and "winter", which are cold colors, as well as warm "autumn" and "spring". Professionals note that this approach is indeed applicable in practice, but in reality everything is somewhat more complicated. "Pure" types are almost never found. And yet these are the basics, and you need to know them. If you take this classification as a basis, then the general recommendations for choosing a hair color are as follows:
| Eyes | Skin | Natural hair color | In what color to dye hair | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Summer | light, muted: blue, gray, steel, greenish | light, pale, milky white, sometimes with an olive nuance | all shades of light brown | light brown with an ash nuance, cold blond |
| Autumn | brown, nut-green | golden-bronze, olive, dark | red, chestnut | cognac, copper, dark chestnut, chocolate, cappuccino shade |
| Winter | light blue, steel, gray, dark brown | porcelain, sometimes olive with a pinkish or bluish undertone | dark chestnut, black | cold platinum, blue-black, chocolate |
| Spring | light, bright blue, green, gray | light | warm light brown, with copper tints, chestnut | caramel, nut, wheat, amber, natural blond |
If aspiring hairdressers want to make a good career out of their start in the field, they must learn coloristics. Stunning hair transformations start with a solid understanding of the fundamentals, from color theory to real-world application.
As your abilities develop, don’t be afraid to try new things and take lessons from every encounter. Each client offers a different chance to hone your skills and broaden your expertise.
Recall that patience and practice are essential. You’ll soon be able to confidently provide individualized color solutions that accentuate your clients’ natural beauty if you put in the necessary effort and are open to learning.
